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At D'Amelio's, mom says mangia
By Edna Z. Wells
1998 Republican-American

D'Amelio's Italian Eatery sits atop one of the highest points in Waterbury. It basks in the sun that nurtures tomato plants and grape vines in the backyards of this Town Plot neighborhood.

In this predominantly Italian section of the city, many of D'Amelio's patrons enjoy patio dining outside the former deli that hasn't changed its outward appearance in 17 years. The smoked glass storefront windows with the D'Amelio logo are still there. The red canvas awning above the door is too.

But inside this Highland Avenue eatery, a metamorphosis has occurred. Over the course of three years, the D'Amelio brothers, Guiseppe and Gianni, transformed the popular neighborhood deli into a popular Italian restaurant that seats 80 patrons in comfort and offers them the same sandwiches and salads that it always has, along with an expanded menu of dishes like lobster filled ravioli with pink champagne and veal saltimbocca.

"Instead of people eating in their cars, we decided to do a renovation in the loft areas and instead of just lunch, like we always did, we decided to do breakfast, lunch, and dinner," Gianni said as he sat in the air conditioned dining room on one of the hottest June mornings on record. "We started getting reservations, doing 40 dinners a night, and reservations with only five tables. So we decided we needed more tables and added a couple booths in the deli area. We kept getting more restaurant business and took the deli case out."

The brothers grew up in this neighborhood and Guiseppe lives next door. Their mother, Giovannina, who lives nearby, taught Guiseppe "how to cook her roasts, chicken, veals, fish, pasta and sauce - a meat sauce with all fresh ingredients which is simmered all day," Gianni said.

"People want us to expand, but I'm not changing the appearance, the prices or the location. I'm not changing anything."

Along with the accomodation of special requests, D'Amelio's offers daily specials and a standard menu. Entrees are served with a choice of pasta and a choice of tossed or spinach salad. Italian bread from the Arthur Avenue Bakery in the Bronx is served with a side of ricotta cheese for dipping, a D'Amelio family tradition.

For lunch there are deli salads such as macaroni, potato and tortollini salad. Grinders, club sandwiches and deli sandwiches feature Italian combos, a veggie combo and standards like turkey, roast beef and tuna. Pasta dishes from $5.95 to $6.95 include baked manicotti. Chicken and veal dishes include parmigiana, Marsala and Francese ($6.95 to $8.95).

For dinner, two of the most popular appetizers, created by Guiseppe, are crabmeat stuffed portobella mushrooms ($5.95) and stuffed videlia onion with homemade mild sausage and spinach or crabmeat ($5.95).

Dinner specials include zuppa de pesce ($16.95); a 20 oz. Porterhouse steak grilled with mushrooms and hot and sweet peppers ($16.95) and boneless pork loin sauteed with garlic and rosemary in a cognac sauce topped with baby greens ($14.95).

The dinner menu features boneless breast of chicken with sauteed spinach and roasted peppers, topped with mozzarella in a Zinfandel sauce ($10.95); penne pasta with sauteed garlic, onions, prosciutto and plum tomatoes ($8.99); penne pasta with sauteed broccoli and garlic in cream sauce ($8.99) and cavatelli with broccoli rabe, fresh sausage, and garlic in virgin olive oil ($8.99).

The desserts are imported from Italy and include tiramisu, sorbets, rum cake, and Sicilian casatta cake, which is a cannoli filling cake.


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718 Highland Avenue, Waterbury, CT 06708
phone: 203.755.0261  fax: 203.755.0485

Copyright © 2001 D'Amelios Italian Eatery. All Rights Reserved.